Upending Expectations: A visit to Kyoto

A much delayed post about my trip to Kyoto last May!
I bought my first guidebook about Japan years ago when there was a slight possibility that I might be making a trip with a friend.  As I sat in Alton's tires passing the hours as I waited for my oil change and snow tires to be removed, long before I ever could have conceived that I would be living in Asia, I read about Kyoto.  It was too far away for a quick trip when I visited Okayama and I didn't think Daniel could survive all of the temples and history when we visited Tokyo for Spring break two years ago, so Kyoto had remained elusive…until now.  I finally found a willing travel companion in my friend Leslie and we made plans as soon as we learned of our long weekend for Buddha's birthday and Children's Day.  In my mind, a four day weekend would be long enough to explore the historical capital of Japan.  Thus began the upending of my expectations about this mystical city.

We flew into Osaka on Friday night and stayed at a wonderful airport hotel.  If you ever have to stop-over at Kansai International Airport, I would highly recommend the Hotel Nikko.  It was clean, beautiful, and had free Wi-fi.  What more can today's international traveler ask for?!  Plus, it was located AT the airport, which made our late night arrival a breeze!  We got up on Saturday morning, found the Starbucks in the airport, and had a nice breakfast while picking up our city mugs (of course)!  The train ride into Kyoto wasn't the express ride I'd planned.  It takes the better part of an hour and a half on the rapid express train to get into Kyoto, but the scenery is interesting and the trains are modern and very comfortable.  Sometimes I really just enjoy having the downtime to sit back and watch the world pass by--it's such a rarity to have time to do absolutely nothing at all these days.  When we arrived in Kyoto, we were faced with the task of navigating the not-so-user-friendly network of subways and JR railways.  I relied on my tried and true METRO app and had some measure of success but my trip to Tokyo taught me that the rail system in Japan is not the user friendly underground of Korea, Paris, or London.  We did manage to make it to the subway station nearest our hotel, but it was quite an ordeal to actually get out of the station and into the light of day.  Our hotel, the Sasarindou, was wonderful, but quite rightly called a hidden gem.  Had we not hailed a taxi and relied on our skillful driver to get us to the destination, we NEVER would have found this place.  It is well hidden in the Gion district but another great place to stay!  

After quite a trek, we weren't really sure what to do with the rest of our first day.  An initial look around revealed that Kyoto was not the quiet historical city of the past, it was a booming, modern city of today and it was going to take quite a lot of effort to get around and get to know it.  After some discussion and time spent leafing through the loads of travel information we made a decision, the first day would be the day of the Geisha.  We were able to locate a theater that specialized in geisha performances during the month of May.  A quick call from the hotel and some help with directions and we were on our way.  We arrived just in time to score the last of the best tickets and to take part in a tea ceremony demonstration put on by a very serious and distinguished looking geisha.  Before we entered the Pontocho Theater, there were three incredibly beautiful young women, one or two geishas and a maiko, waiting to meet gentlemen clients before the show.  I was fortunate enough to take some paparazzi-like photos from the crowd before the ladies disappeared into the theater.  The young women were dressed in stunning kimonos and carried themselves in a dignified manner, with perfect posture and poise.  One can't help but be intrigued by the lifestyle of the young women who choose the life of a geisha.  The performance consisted of several acts of skillful singing, acting, and dancing--these women aren't just pretty faces.  Afterward, we followed a geisha-on-the-go down one of the historic streets but we lost her in the crowd.  For dinner, I introduced Leslie to tempura and udon noodles, two Japanese staples which we ate at a restaurant in a department store.

The next two days of our stay in Kyoto consisted of visiting as many temples and shrines as humanly possible.  To be honest, I couldn't name them all without rifling through all of my travel materials, but needless to say, we hardly scratched the surface!  Each temple or shrine was beautifully unique, but my favorite by far was the golden temple called Kinkaku-ji, which we visited in a downpour.  It was no small task to get to this gem, but it was worth it as the golden pavilion was surrounded by purple irises, the favorite flower of my grandma.  Nijo Castle was also a pleasant surprise as it hadn't been on our itinerary at all, but proved to be a wonderful place to pass a rainy afternoon (a walk on the nightingale floors are worth the visit).  We also arranged to take part in a private tea ceremony where a young woman who had been educated for many years on the historical practice of the tea ceremony explained the meaning of each motion performed then taught us how to prepare the tea in the tea ceremony.  It was a very meditative and beautiful experience.  Of course we couldn't leave Japan without having Leslie try sushi and we were lucky to find a great little place just down the street from our hotel. 

Kyoto certainly is a city of extremes, where the old and new collide, traditions are embraced but the future is also sought.  Before taking the train back to Osaka we stopped at Starbucks for a beverage and walked down to the river's edge to enjoy the beautiful afternoon.  As we sat enjoying our drink, I looked downriver and saw the feet of all the people dangling over the edge of the concrete bank and almost laughed as I saw trendy, modern shoes along with traditional socks and the bottom of kimono.  Three days certainly was not enough time to begin figuring this city out and I left feeling much the tourist with many more questions than I had when I came.  All that was left to do was create a photo book of memories from my weekend in Kyoto.  Here it is:

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Magical Manly and Climbing The Harbour Bridge

I had been looking forward to Friday, my fifth day in Sydney, with nervous anticipation since I arrived.  My day began with a 7:05 am pickup for the city tour--no sleeping in for the ambitious traveler on this tour!  Also, I knew that this was bridge climb day and I was both excited and terrified at the same time.  More about this shortly.  While I waited to be picked up for my morning guided tour, I met the Moore family who was also traveling on a Monograms vacation with Pam as their local host.  They were a lovely group of four: a couple plus the parents of the husband.  I learned that we would be traveling to Cairns together and doing the same Great Barrier Reef tour, so I was excited to have some travel companions for at least a few days!  We boarded the bus and our tour officially began at 8am.  

Our driver, Mark, was friendly and upbeat.  He gave us great commentary as he drove us around the city.  I think one of the most helpful pieces of information came as we passed over the Harbour Bridge and I was able to learn the height of the bridge (not as tall as I thought!).  I was also able to get a good look at exactly what I'd be walking on later in the day, which helped put my mind at ease just a bit.  The first stop was a small park on the opposite side of the cove just below the bridge with nice views of the Opera House and the Bridge from a vantage point I hadn't seen yet.  

The Opera House as seen from across the cove

Looking at the Harbour Bridge from beneath

Morning city view

The bridge with pylon lookout

One of my very nice tour group mates took photos for me after he made fun of me for trying to take selfies!

It was a cold morning in Sydney!

Back on the bus we proceeded through Mossman (thanks Stephanie Black for a bit of orientation prior to my trip!) and a bit more of suburban Sydney to a very nice lookout.  From above we could see the spot where my Coffee Cruise had turned around in Sydney Harbour.  Again I was amazed at just how massive the harbour was and impressed by the sparkling blue water--it really does just take your breath away as you look up into the harbour and see the small coves with sailboats moored, lovely harbourside homes, and lush foliage tucked here and there.  

Our final stop of the morning was Manly Beach, which I could just make out from my Harbour Cruise.  Not surprisingly, there weren't loads of beach combers that morning but we did see a few die hard surfers out in the water.  There was also a surf school class taking place just off the beach.  It was quite cold that morning so everyone was decked out in their wetsuits!  While many of the others went to get a coffee, I decided I couldn't come all this way and not walk on the beach so I took a short stroll to get some photos . The beach sand was a beautiful golden color and very fine.  It was a lovely contrast with the teal and blue ocean water.  I can only imagine what this place must look like on a hot summer's day!  Soon it was time to meet back at the  bus and make our way into the city once more.  I suppose if I'd had more time it would have been fun to hang out in Manly and take the fast ferry back to Circular Quay--next time!

The famous Manly Beach!

Brave surfers in the cold ocean!

Gorgeous ocean water

I arrived back in the CBD with enough time to mail my box of souvenirs home and grab lunch before setting out for, gulp, the climb.  My group was departing at 2:45pm and would finish around 6:00pm.  With sunset around 5:00, it was shaping up to be a great evening.  While I ate lunch I called home to catch up and for a little reassurance.  I arrived at Bridge Climb early and before long it was time to gather for pre-climb preparations.  You sign a release form, get breathalyzed, and then get suited up.  I'd already been warned about the last bathroom stop (thanks Dheerja):).  Oddly enough, they had us suit up with just our "t-shirt and undies" underneath the suit, which was unexpected and very different from what friends who had climbed before had told me.  The jumpsuit, by the way is super spiffy.  Mine had a low hanging crotch that made me feel like a thirteen year old boy with saggy pants.  Flattering, yes?  Once you have your suit on, you get a climb belt that reminds me what you'd wear if you went rock climbing because the cable that attaches you to the bridge hooks on there, and then everything that you might take with you hooks on there (or to your jumpsuit).  Essentially, if it can't attach to you, you can't wear it or take it up.  So, I clipped on a fleece jacket and a rain jacket, plus a radio headset to receive instructions from the climb leader.  They have you practice hooking on to the cable line, then climbing up three ladders and down three ladders because you have to do that to get onto and off the bridge arch.  Once everyone passes the test, you head to the start and line up.  When you slide your clip onto the line, you stay on the line for the entire climb so the order of the climbers doesn't change and you can't bail off for any reason--Yikes!  I was third in line with a lovely woman called Nicola, who also happened to be traveling alone, behind me.  We were both a bit nervous about the whole thing so it worked out well and I found her British humor fun and familiar.  

The walkways in the underbelly of the bridge are about 12inches wide and you wind your way around until you arrive at the pylon.  That's where you meet "the ladders".  When you're climbing the ladders you are actually caged on both sides for three of them and open for the fourth and there are cars speeding along on both sides of you.  It's a little daunting but I just looked up and powered through.  When I arrived at the top, there was a handy little water fountain waiting.  It made things a bit easier knowing that there were two Bridge Climb safety guys at the bottom in case something went wrong and our climb leader at the top to help us out.  From there, we were on the upper arch and all we had to do was follow the ascending staircase to the summit.  We stopped several times along the way to take in the gorgeous view and for our climb leader to take photos.  I have to say, it was absolutely magnificent up there and the bridge is so solid that there is absolutely no danger of falling off the bridge.  Plus, you are clipped into the line continually.  On the upper arch, the staircase is wide enough for two people to walk side by side so things feel a bit more free than the cramped spaces underneath the bridge.  We paused for a good while at the top and, surprise, a marriage proposal happened in my climb group!  It was the sweetest thing a with a lovely sunset backdrop!  She said "yes",  by the way.  

From the top of the arch, we actually walked across the center of the bridge and back down the other side.  As we descended, the sunset just kept getting better and better.  Back at the pylon we met the bloody ladders again.  This time we climbed down between two trains!  I was lucky and went fast enough that I beat the rushing trains, but those who followed weren't as fortunate and said it was quite scary!  From this point on we got to switch on our snazzy headlamps since it was now fairly dark beneath the bridge and the walkway was much narrower--you did have to watch your head!  Soon thereafter we were back at Bridge Climb unhooking all of our appendages from our belts and suits and changing out of those lovely jumpsuits for good!  We were rewarded with a group photo and I had pre-purchased two additional photos from the climb--they all turned out pretty good so it was hard to choose!  Overall, I went from terrified to feeling completely comfortable 1300+ meters up in the air.  What an experience!  My only suggestion...like the Eiffel Tower, I suggest installing a bathroom at the top!  That's a long time to go without a toilet break!  It could even have a tiny window and they could advertise it as the best view in Sydney;).

My Bridge Climb Group!

A little bit of Korean love at the top of the bridge

A Free Day in Sydney

My fourth morning in Sydney started off a bit rough--I was supposed to have a 10am tour of the Opera House, but my body had other plans, so I holed up in my hotel room to wait things out.  I was going to just rebook the tour for Saturday evening and say to heck with the $30 ticket, but I decided to try calling the box office and explaining what happened to see if they'd sympathize and rebook my ticket.  Luck was on my side, and although the lady I spoke with said they never re-book tickets, she did anyway!  One thing I noticed about Australians throughout my three weeks on tour is that they were all so very kind and helpful.  It was refreshing when someone accidentally ran into you on the street to have them look you in the eye and apologize!  In Korea I've become so used to getting pushed around, that I'd nearly forgotten what it felt like to operate in an English speaking society with different social norms and I quite liked it!  

I had decided to give myself a bit of extra time at the hotel to rest and journal, so I departed at noon and headed to Paddy's Markets.  I thought I'd do a bit of shopping,  but it only took me a few minutes of walking around to realize that the chaos and "treasures" for sale just weren't for me.  It felt a bit like shopping at Namdaemun Market--lots of people and a lot of stuff I didn't need!  I high-tailed it out of there and walked back through Darling Harbour toward Hyde Park since I really wanted to tour the Barracks.  Dheerja had mentioned it as something she had enjoyed on a Discovery Week of Sydney when she was a sophomore and if something stood out to a teenager as being good, then I thought it was a worthwhile way to take in a bit of Sydney's convict and immigrant history.  She was right!  In the hour I spent at  Hyde Park Barracks I did learn so much about Sydney's past and Hyde Park Barracks' role in housing convicts, immigrant women, and the like.  The audio guide they give you is great and you can wander at your own pace.  

Layers of history...

Writing on the walls from mischievous craftsmen. 

Artifacts buried in the barracks.

A list of the convicts and their offenses.

The sleeping quarters.

Hyde Park Barracks from the outside.

After finishing up at the Barracks, I made a quick stop at my hotel then headed to The Rocks to do a bit of shopping before my Opera House Tour. I am so glad I was able to get rescheduled for later in the day because the tour was wonderful!  Our guide, Steve, was so informative and keen to get us into as many behind the scenes spaces as possible.  We saw three of the theaters and one had a current performance taking place so the dancers were just warming up.  I so wish I'd had more time so I could have bought a ticket to see Bangarra Dance Theater's Patyegarang, the story of an Aboriginal woman and the sharing of her language and customs with William Dawes, a British officer and astronomer, told in modern and traditional dance.  From what I could see from a glimpse of the warm-up and Steve's evaluation of the show, I knew it would have been phenomenal!  Check out this clip: 

Back to the Opera House tour, it was very impressive to learn more about the history of the construction, and now the upkeep of Sydney's iconic landmark.  Seeing it up close from both the inside and outside was a real treat and gave such a different perspective than the landmark photographs you see on postcards.  That structure really is an engineering feat and such a beautiful one at that.  Two of the three theaters in the main building are quite small, and the third looks small but can hold over a thousand people.  When I left the Opera House I took the opportunity to photograph the Harbour Bridge and then the Opera House itself illuminated. Both are beautiful when the sun goes down, but still not as splendid as Darling Harbour from the night before!  Walking back to my hotel I realized what a great privilege I had to be seeing such a special city!

The Harbour Bridge from the exterior portion of the tour.

The interior of a small theater.

Back outside again...Luna Park in the distance.

The Bridge Climb group at the top of the bridge...that would be me just 24 hours later!

Inside the main theater lobby which showcases beautiful construction.

One of my favorite shots from the tour from the main theater lobby.

Inside the large theater where the operas and big concerts are held.  The acoustics are perfection!

The "guts", or perhaps bones, of the opera house.

The Harbour Bridge at night!

Changing light as the sun set.

Total darkness and still water.

The illuminated Opera House.

The illuminated sails.